Introduction
Speciality hair fibres are the fibres obtained from animal-hair origins with desirable softness, lustre, warmth, natural colour and other functional properties. They form important assets to the handloom sector, to weave quality textiles, though they are available sparingly.
The first known animal fibre used by ancient people was ‘wool’ obtained from sheep (botanical name1: Ovis aries) for clothing worn next to the skin or pelt. Later these fibres were hand matted into a fabric, and this further led to the formation of yarn from which a variety of fabrics were formed.
Animal fibre is basically a natural-protein (keratin) multi-cellular, staple fibre, which is crimpy and possesses scales externally when viewed microscopically. It provides warmth and physical comfort, which are most desirable for both apparel and home textiles, such as shawls, rugs, blankets, floor coverings etc.
The animal hair grows in two standard coats. One – the outer, coarser coat – is called the ‘outer coat’ and is relatively glossy and stiff. This outer coat overlaps and forms a protective shield against water, rain and snow; it can measure up to 15 inches. The inner down-hair growth is called the ‘inner coat’ or ‘under coat’ and is closer to the skin; hence it is soft and shorter than the outer hair, thus acting as an insulator and protecting against heat and cold. It measures 1 to 5 inches in length. The quality of hair fibre depends on the breed, climate, nutrition, general care and health of the animal, and the fleece colour also varies from species to species. The qualities of speciality-hair fabrics appear diverse individually, though there are similarities in most cases.
Today, these speciality-hair fibres have very important spectra in the ever-changing fashion world and their utilisation and application is an emerging trend in India, growing slowly yet steadily. Some of the other animals used as sources of hair fibres for textiles include camels, llamas, alpacas, guanacos, vicuñas, rabbits, angora goats, and Kashmir (or cashmere) goats. Fur fibres from animals such as mink and beavers are sometimes blended with other hairs to spin luxury yarns but are most often found as fur pelts.